Sanliurfa Haleplibahçe Mosaic Museum

The Haleplibahçe mosaic exhibit opened up in Sanliurfa, Turkey in June 2015 and now stands alongside the biggest museum and is a part of the biggest museum complex in Turkey. It has impressed all who’ve had the pleasure to visit this massive complex. Today, we will feature some of the best of the mosaic exhibit.

Orpheus playing his harp for the wild beasts, dates from about 194 CE and is the oldest of the Edessa/Urda mosaics. The artist’s name is even engraved in the piece, “Bar Saged.”

Opening at the beginning of June, the museum development covers a 200,000 square metre area set within the path of the dried up Karakoyun river bed and includes an “Archaeology Park”, ornamental gardens with fountains and a plaza in which there are two significant buildings. The main archaeological museum building encompasses 60,000 square metres over three floors, houses archaeological finds from across the region along with interactive displays, film and lecture theatres and activity centres. The building is thoroughly modern in concept, has full wheelchair access throughout and takes the visitor through the entire history of the Sanliurfa region starting with the Neolithic and Chalcolithic periods and progresses through Hittite, Babylonian, Persian, Ancient Greek, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Islamic and Ottoman periods.

Four apostles
In the center of this mosaic dating from CE 563 is a symbol representing the four apostles who wrote the four gospels found in the New Testament: Matthew is depicted as a lion; Mark is depicted as an ox; Luke is depicted as a man; and John is depicted as an eagle. Within the frame, a Syriac description reads, “this house was built in CE 563 during the days of Abbot Sam by Helpidus and Yuhannus.”
This African man leading a Zebra is a clear indication that Edessa (Sanliurfa) was connected to the massive trade routes that went through the middle east in the 3rd to 4th centuries CE.
This African man leading a Zebra is a clear indication that Edessa (Sanliurfa) was connected to the massive trade routes that went through the middle east in the 3rd to 4th centuries CE.
Birds are favorite in the Haleplibahce exhibit.


This shot is a view of a small portion of the exhibit, showing how big the exhibit really is.
Another shot showing how massive the complex is.









This mosaic shows the highlights from the life of Achilles. The images included a depiction of Achilles being held by his nanny, his mother, Thetis, holding Achilles by the heal and dipping him in the river Styx in order to make him invulnerable, Achilles saying good-bye to his mother, the training Achilles received from the wise centaur Chiron, and a depiction of Thetis mourning as Achilles departs for the Trojan War.


There can be no mistaking that this new mosaic museum at Haleplibahçe, (along with it’s counterpart museum which features items from Göbekli Tepe, Nevali Çori, and more…post coming soon) is at the center of the history, and the future, of Sanliurfa, Turkey.

Istanbul Coffee Festival

In Kadıköy, on Istanbul’s Anatolia side, proudly stands Haydarpaşa train station. The Guide Istanbul describes Haydarpaşa train station as once being “one of the busiest train stations in the world, connecting the Orient Express line from Europe to the Baghdad-Hijaz railway of the Middle East. The station’s castle-like German architecture contrasts with the Oriental tiles inside, giving a perfect historical atmosphere for the world’s most innovative coffee providers.” Pretty intriguing description, one that makes this year’s Istanbul Coffee Festival exciting for more than being a coffee festival, which is exciting enough.

The 2015 Istanbul Coffee Festival will be Turkey’s (perhaps Eurasia’s) largest gathering of third-wave coffee enthusiasts – professionals, owners, roasters, connoisseurs, baristas, and newbies included. What is “third-wave coffee”, you ask? Esquire answers that in the most entertaining way.

As a way to celebrate and prepare for the festival (I get to go this year!), I’d like to introduce you to some of my favorite (and I think the best) coffee specialists, roasters, and shops in Turkey.

Kronotrop – When it opened in 2012 it was one of the first specialty coffee roasters in Istanbul, and all of Turkey for that matter (Çekirdek being the other shop laying claim to breaking ground first. Unfortunately, I’ve not been able to visit this shop yet). Kronotrop recently moved from the Taksim area of Istanbul to the heart of the historical sites of the city in Eminonu. So right after you go see the 1,500 year old museum/church/mosque (Hagia Sophia), go on down and get some good coffee.

Coffeetopia – Just around the corner from Krontrop you’ll find Coffeetopia. Specialty coffee in Turkey wouldn’t be where it is today if it where not for Şerif and Özlem Başaran. As a certified WBC Technical Judge, and owner of Coffee Factory, which provides beans to other shops in Turkey, Şerif has influence throughout the Turkish and European coffee world. This is there first retail venture and they are doing it right.

Petra Coffee – Petra has a small kiosk in Istanbul, but the place to try their coffee is in the Tuscany style beach town of Alaçatı. Petra came flying onto the coffee scene and made a big splash, they took fourth place last year at the World Coffee Roasting Championship in Rimini, Italy. But there is no specialty roaster with a space like they have in Alaçatı. A village beach town where everything moves slowly is the perfect place to try their cold brew on a hot summer’s day.

Brew Lab – Being led by Turkish Barista and Latte Art champion Özkan Yetik and being located on the most famous street in Turkey gives this coffee shop an edge, but the amazing coffee seals the deal. Featuring the likes of Japanese iced coffee and fun with siphons they are sure to please

Two Cups Coffee – For years the coffee scene in Turkey has only been represented in Istanbul. Thankfully over the last year Izmir has seen an influx of 3-5 specialty coffee shops (with Petra being close by in Alaçatı) – since I live here, I am especially grateful. On the top of my list is Two Cups. Located in the hip neighborhood of Alsancak, Two Cups is owned and operated by Tolga Onder. While I haven’t had the chance to try my favorite coffee (Ethiopian Kochere) I’ve been wonderfully satisfied by their Guatemalan and Honduras roasts. I’m even more excited that they are only a short ferry ride away.

While the Third Wave Coffee scene has yet to hit all the corners of Turkey, the Istanbul Coffee Festival is evidence of specialty coffee’s growing popularity and success.

​”Turkey: Petra Roasting’s New Seaside Cafe In Alaçati, Izmir Province”

Petra Roasting Co.’s new spot in Alacati is one of my favorite places to drink coffee on this planet (I’ve yet to drink any on another planet). It has everything one could want in a coffee spot. Hipness. Peace and quiet. Great decor. And, most importantly, skilled baristas brewing up some stupendous coffee.IMG_2899

  at does a magnificent job of making me want to go back.

Alaçatı is an Aegean beach town whose popularity seems to grow each year. So far this beautiful place has been able to maintain its identity as one of the most authentic old towns in Turkey, complete with stone houses, narrow stone streets, and vineyards and windmills that date back more than 150 years. More recently the city is home to a few stylish boutique hotels, filled up with well-heeled tourists from Turkey and across Europe.


Göbekli Tepe

Here is an article I wrote for Ancient Encyclopedia on GOBEKLI TEPE which is the oldest man-made place of worship yet discovered, dating back to 10,000 BCE.

“Göbekli Tepe” (“Hill with a Navel”, or “Potbelly Hill”) is found approximately 16 km (10 miles) northeast of Şanlıurfa, an ancient city in southeastern Turkey once named “Edessa” and known as “the City of the Prophets”. While this nearby city has a rich religious history, just how far back religion stretched in this region was unknown until the discovery of “Göbekli Tepe”

Read the rest of the definition here…

GT site-2-1

11 things you need to know about Turkish coffee before heading to Turkey

I love coffee, and I love Turkey. I love living here, I love learning here, and I love the people. Most people around the globe know at least some things about Turkey (Turkish Delight, the Whirling Dervish, Istanbul not Constantinople), and therefore many people have heard of Turkish coffee. But, those same people probably do not realize just how important it is in Turkish society. I set out to measure just how special it is by, of course, reading some books and blogs, and by interviewing an “expert” (a Turkish housewife) to learn more about this drink that takes your taste buds on the ride of their lives.

  1. “A bubbly brew indeed” – Turkish coffee isn’t made with today’s popular methods (Chemex, V60, or the Barista at Starbucks). Turkish coffee is boiled — coffee, water, and sugar all together; not in a pan, but in a traditional instrument made of copper called a “cezve”.
  2. “The best things come in small packages” – Turkish coffee is served in what looks to be a teeny-tiny little mug; in part because it was so valuable that it could only be afforded in small amounts, and at the same time, so strong that it could only be consumed in small amounts. But don’t worry, even the most burly of Turkish men drink their coffee in these glasses, holding their pinkies up high and proud.
  3. “You’ll never be drunk alone” – Another thing one must know is that Turkish coffee is never served alone. “Usually” says Rusen, “Turkish coffee is given with a small glass of water. The reason for this is that if one drinks the water before the coffee then they can clean out their mouth and the flavor of the coffee will be better. It is drunk after the coffee in order to clean out the coffee grounds from your teeth and mouth.” I’ve also been told that if you drink the water before the coffee, it means you are still hungry and the coffee was served too soon. Thankfully it also sometimes comes with chocolates, or my favorite, Turkish Delight.
  4. “More coffee, or I am divorcing you!” – According to Mark Pendergast, in his book “Uncommon Grounds”, coffee was so important during the 16th-century in the Ottoman empire, that a husband not providing enough coffee became grounds for a woman to seek divorce.
  5. “Coffee, tell me my future” – Many are familiar with psychic reading of tea leaves, but did you know that some people think coffee might give you a clearer picture of your future? “Falcılık” (fortune telling), or “fal bakmak” is where a fortuneteller reads your coffee grounds and tells you what the future has in store. So does it really work, or is it just a game played for fun? It depends on whom you ask. First you drink your coffee, living a little bit of the grounds in the cup. Once you have just the grounds left, you gently turn over your cup on the saucer, and if you have a ring you put a ring on top of the cup. This makes the cup cool down quickly and helps your fortune come out better. “Then,” Rusen excitedly explains, “once everyone has turned the cup over, the reader removes the cup and looks at your grounds to read your fortune.” There are even apps that will help you figure out your fortune.
  6. “Give a cup of coffee, earn my respect” – Ask anyone on the street in Turkey and they can probably tell you this saying about Turkish coffee: “bir kahvenin kırk yıl hatırı vardır”, meaning, “one cup of Turkish coffee has a forty year obligation.” Even with the translation it is somewhat of a riddle, but this means that the person giving the coffee is to be respected, honored, and remembered for a long time for the sake of his offering the coffee. “This shows us that Turkish coffee is very valuable and special,” said Rusen.
  7. “I fell in love because of her coffee” – This might be something you only hear a barista or a coffee addict say, but in Turkey, it has a lot more meaning. At a “kız istemeye” (“to get the girl” – when a man comes to ask for a girl’s hand in marriage), it is a tradition for the would-be-bride to make Turkish coffee for the would-be-groom and his family. Since Turkish coffee is only for special occasions, this makes the guy and his family feel special. “In the groom’s Turkish coffee”, says Rusen, “you sometimes put some salt, or a little spicy pepper.” “Why?” You ask. “Is this something that will be hitting Starbucks menu soon? I thought the coffee was meant to impress the groom!” Yes, but it is also used to test his love for the girl. If he complains about the coffee, then the coffee was more important than she. If he drinks it without complaining, he really loves her. I once watched my friend drink a coffee with vinegar in it at his “kız istemeye.” True love indeed. Thankfully, the cups are small.
  8. “Give me that foam” – most coffee lovers know that a cappuccino or latte is judged by it’s foam. Well, Turkish coffee, being the “grand-father of the espresso” — according to Erin Meister of Counter Culture Coffee here — is also judged by the spumy, lathery foam. Rusen told us how all her friends know that her Turkish coffee is the best because of the amount of foam she can froth up.
  9. “Coffeehouses – where business and brawling happen” – Erin Meister, who writes for hereabout the journey of coffee, rightly cites coffee as fuel for “marketplace discussion” during the Ottoman Empire. She tells how it was “continuously used as a catalyst for business meetings and the exchange of a day’s news.” But Turkish coffeehouses were not just the place for brewing economic and intellectual growth, they were also known for brewing troublemakers. Some rulers thought people in coffeehouses were having too much fun, and one Grand Vizier Kuprili of Istanbul “banned coffeehouses during a war, fearing sedition” and treachery, writes Mark Pendergrast. Looks like caffeine helps out with brain function and military coups!
  10. “How should we celebrate? Coffee!” – During the time of Ataturk (someone you need to get to know when planning a trip to Turkey), and even during the time of the Sultans, a “paşa” (general) would celebrate winning a battle by sharing a cup of Turkish coffee with his lieutenants.
  11. “Let’s chase this meal with a cup of joe” – Having a cup of coffee after dinner is not uncommon the world over. But in Turkey, one is hard pressed to find someone who does not end their meal with a glass of “çay” (tea). However, there are also those who like to end a meal with a cup of Turkish Coffee. So, next time you are in Turkey, why not follow that kebab and pilav with a nice, strong, thick cup of the REAL Turkish delight, coffee.